Xema Álvarez
Neither Nordic minimalism nor avant-garde pretensions: at Xalest, what prevails is flavour. For four years the restaurant of the hotel Concepció by Nobis has been defending traditional cuisine, reinterpreted by its chef, Xema Álvarez. Self-taught but with a career spanning renowned kitchens such as Azurmendi and Frederikshøj, in Copenhagen, the Mallorcan has made Xalest a space where traditional cuisine is reinterpreted with creativity and respect.
“I like to say that my food is grandma’s style, recreated by the grandson”, says Álvarez. At Xalest his fare is based on traditional Spanish cuisine, with homemade soups and stews and flavours that evoke taste memories, presented in a contemporary and appealing way. “Tripe, oxtail... When people try the dish, I want them to recognise the authentic flavour, but be thrown off and surprised by the presentation”, he adds.
Xalest’s menu reflects this philosophy: dishes that draw from classic Spanish recipes and the chef’s personal roots—which include Galicia, Ceuta, Navarra and Mallorca—and are transformed into playful options such as pica-pica gyozas and oxtail ravioli. Seasonal, local produce rules, with dishes in which vegetables, mushrooms and Mediterranean fish shine. “When they are in season, artichokes are sacred to me. And I love working with fish. I’ve had it at home since I was a child”, he says.
Having been at the helm of the restaurant for four years now, Álvarez enjoys the kind of creative freedom that is unusual in five-star hotels. “At Xalest I’ve been given space to be myself. Of course there are standards, but I feel very supported by the team and the management. That’s something the customer also notices”, he says.
This connection with diners has been key to Xalest establishing itself in the Mallorcan gastronomy scene. Although the boutique hotel setting might have seemed an obstacle to attracting local clientele, commitment to an affordable and well-prepared lunch menu has broken down barriers. “We wanted to appeal to the Mallorcan general public and the lunch menu has worked really well. From there, many have gone on to try the à la carte menu”, says the chef.
At Xalest, the calendar is divided into two culinary seasons: a warmer and more elaborate winter menu, and a summer one where freshness and produce in its most direct form reigns. “Nowadays there is no more spring or autumn in Mallorca”, says the chef. “We work with two menus that respond to the climate and seasonal produce, always looking for simplicity without losing depth”. Whatever the time of year, Álvarez’s food has a clear common thread: authenticity, sensitivity and a deep respect for tradition. On an island undergoing a veritable culinary boom, his work is a true declaration of principles.
