Álvaro Salazar
VORO. “From the Latin, vorare: to eat avidly, to devour, to eat anxiously, with great appetite or a degree of savagery, to consume food voraciously. The name of Álvaro Salazar’s restaurant in Cap Vermell Grand Hotel (two Michelin stars) is far from coincidental. It was purposefully devised and chosen by the Jaen-born chef and is a firm declaration of intent. The restaurant pays tribute to Salazar’s memories and the local environment; he and his team take the Mediterranean and the roots of Spanish cooking and use them as a departure point for reinterpreting recipes, adding a complex amalgam of creative touches to each dish.
He emphasises that he has “many flaws, such as being unpunctual (but only outside VORO)” and defines himself as “a serious, methodical, conscientious, respectful, polite person who is forever searching for coherence”. After completing his food studies, Salazar began his first internship at just 17 years of age in Tragabuches (1 Michelin star). In 2006, he travelled to Ezcaray to continue training at Echaurren (2 Michelin stars). He spent a further five months as an apprentice at the restaurants El Portal and Echaurren, and after a year in Cordoba at the head of the first five-star hotel in the city, he set off on a journey around Spain to discover its cooking, patisserie-making and baking in greater depth. Evidence of his trip can clearly be seen in the food he creates for his restaurant guests today.
Ternera mallorquina madurada
Totally Spanish cuisine
“My cooking comes from Andalusia because my memories are Andalusian, but our surroundings nourish us with the produce that we’re going to use,” explains Salazar. Because the context is what has truly defined the discourse at VORO. Taking Mallorca and its idiosyncrasies as a starting point, the restaurant is inspired by the best local produce, complementing it with other products from different parts of Spain. “We don’t use foreign products or hint at anything outside of Spain. I think a marinade is more interesting than a curry. I love knowing about Spanish food,” he adds.
“I think a marinade is more interesting than a curry. I love knowing about Spanish food,” he adds.
Cooking at VORO is free and untethered but has a firm commitment to its surroundings and roots. And that’s where Salazar’s true obsession with coherence comes into play. Food at VORO is a tribute to the vast culinary richness of Spain: starting in Andalusia and continuing through Mallorca, the Mediterranean, its produce, dishes and culture. This discourse has one clear premise: Andalusian-born Salazar takes the classic recipe book and creatively reinvents each of its dishes, with techniques such as marinades, spices and crushed seasonings, and recovering virtually forgotten Spanish dishes including gachas, morrococo, olla podrida and ajoatao. The objective? To rescue forgotten gems of traditional Spanish cooking, viewing these dishes through different prisms.
Almond and caviar
The menu is updated three times a year. Every inch of each dish is carefully designed and submitted for group tastings. “They’re dishes that mature for around twelve months until I’m happy to introduce them,” Salazar explains. “We do highly technical and aesthetic cooking. We believe that the appearance is like another ingredient. We want each dish to be visual, coherent and for everything to have a reason. Our cooking strives for excellence and total enjoyment. If a diner hasn’t enjoyed eating at VORO, we’ve failed. That’s what matters most to me,” he continues.
“We believe that the appearance is like another ingredient. We want each dish to be visual, coherent and for everything to have a reason”
When every detail counts
The search for perfection and balance are permanently in Salazar’s head when it comes to designing the menu at his restaurant. And, while constantly exploring, each little detail takes on great importance. For example, bread becomes the perfect accompaniment to each bite. That’s why the head of patisserie-making at VORO, Sela Priego (2019 Best Balearic Pastry Chef – Baker Award) kneads, ferments and bakes each item in the restaurant’s bread repertoire each day.
The wine list has around 300 labels. Each has been carefully selected and inspired by passionate producers, from micro-wineries to more traditional wine makers. The presence of Spanish labels stands out, especially local producers. This is how VORO aims to introduce diners to local wines: the perfect experience for people who aren’t familiar with Mallorca as a wine-producing region. And, of course, anyone who wants to connect to Spain’s wine-producing roots can enjoy a pairing menu that takes you on a journey from Andalusia, the chef’s homeland, across the whole of Spain to Mallorca.
Las gachas de mi infancia
Atmosphere also plays a vital role in the experience offered by VORO; diners will discover a space bursting with works of art that add life to every corner, reflecting the restaurant’s complex character. Because the combination of art and food takes on great meaning here: art, as the ability to transcend reality in a personal and unique way, and food, as a transformative expression of cooking that uses fresh produce to explore new sensations.
And, as if we hadn’t already included enough reasons to plan an immediate visit to VORO, the restaurant is in Cap Vermell Grand Hotel (Canyamel) in an as yet undiscovered part of Mallorca. A new luxury destination, a hidden gem in the Mediterranean, waiting patiently to be explored.
