Joan Sevillano
At just 31 years old, Joan Sevillano has worked with some of the biggest names in gastronomy and today leads the kitchen of a restaurant that combines tradition, innovation and a deep respect for produce. In this interview, the chef of Sa Pleta de Mar, in Canyamel, talks to us about his career, his culinary philosophy based on a deep respect for produce and age-old techniques such as fire.
Where are you from and how did your passion for cooking begin?
I’m Mallorcan, from Artà. I was born and raised here and now I work just five kilometres from home. For me, it is a great opportunity to be close to my family and to know better than anyone else the produce and gastronomic culture of the area. The truth is that as a child I was not a model student, I was not very interested in what I was taught at school. I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do, but some friends got into a cookery degree and I decided to give it a try. I started at the age of 16 with an intermediate degree, then I went to the Hotel and Restaurant Management School of the Balearic Islands and, from there, I learnt and grew as a cook.
What does your food convey?
I’m a young chef, but I have been in this world for quite some time. I like to pass on everything I have learnt throughout my career, the values that have been instilled in me. For me, understanding where we are, knowing what environment we are in and reflecting that on the plate is fundamental. My food is fresh and based on local and national produce, but without closing doors on myself. I love to travel and, in that sense, I really admire Asian cuisine. Not because my food is Asian, but because I’m inspired by their philosophy: treating produce with respect and giving it the value it deserves. I think the Asians are the best at that.
You have worked under very important chefs, such as Marc Fosh (among others). What is it like working with him?
Working with Marc is incredible. In our mind he is a wise man, a person who conveys tranquillity and teaches us to value produce as it deserves. His philosophy is to have the best fresh produce, treat it well and enhance its flavour in the most direct way possible. I have been with him for four years and his way of understanding cooking has had a great influence on mine.
For me, understanding where we are, knowing what environment we are in and reflecting that on the plate is fundamental
You also worked at the restaurant Molí d’en Bou, which had a Michelin star…
Yes, I spent five years there, when I was in Sa Coma and it was run by Tomeu Caldentey and Andrés Benítez. They were my models and those who taught me the basics of cooking. Thanks to them I am who I am today.
Fire plays a key role in the food at Sa Pleta de Mar. What’s it like working with it?
The embers and smoke bring something unique. We are not an Etxebarri-style steakhouse, but we do use the embers in a subtle way in almost every dish on the menu. Fire must be treated with respect; if you overdo it, it saturates the dish. You have to look for balance.
Goat milk Panna Cotta
In that sense, fire also connects with that Asian essence you mentioned before....
Exactly. In Japan, for example, the robata grill is essential. We also work with one and that allows us to play with cooking times and techniques that we combine with ingredients from here.
How do you fuse together Asian flavours with Mallorcan cuisine?
In a subtle way, as with fire. We incorporate products such as coconut milk, kaffir lime, ginger, star anise, citronella, basil... and combine them with the best local produce always in a balanced way, without the international eclipsing the local. I don’t like to follow a single line, I prefer to open my mind and explore flavours.
How has the food at Sa Pleta evolved since you joined the team?
I have been here for five years, the first three as sous chef with Ignacio Martinone. At the beginning, we followed a more classic line, based on Marc’s philosophy. But, over time, we have evolved and now we offer a more personal tasting menu. We have achieved important recognition, such as recommendations in the Michelin Guide and Repsol, which motivates us to keep moving forward.
If you had to define your food in three words, what would they be?
Flavour, elegance and subtlety. I don’t like to overload dishes with too many ingredients. I prefer to work with a few well-chosen products and balance them with flavours that make sense.
Sa Pleta de Mar
How do you imagine the future?
This is what I’m focused on right now, but in a few years I would like to manage several restaurants with different styles. I also want to train and guide young chefs, because these days it is hard to find professionals and form strong teams.
Talking of teams, you mentioned that the team is the most important thing for you…
Yeah, without my team none of this would be possible. Marc Borrueco, Javier Valverde, Pedro Jaume Galmés and Ana Lucía Moncada in pastry are key pillars in our kitchen. I like to build team loyalty, making sure we are all aligned and believe in the project. For me, the most important thing is that they feel good, because if they feel good, I will feel good too.
