Felipe Moreno
At Lío Mallorca, the show does not only unfold on the stage. Between cooking and plating, another show unfolds: that led by Felipe Moreno, head chef of the restaurant since its opening in 2022, under the direction of Andreu Genestra, executive chef of the group. Moreno’s career, marked by excellence and exactitude, now takes in one of the most unique culinary projects in the Mediterranean. We spoke to him about this vision, the challenges of cooking alongside a show and how he creates an experience that goes far beyond the dishes.
How did you end up at Lío Mallorca?
It was a story of connections. Before joining Lío I was working in Mallorca, but after the pandemic I went to London. There, I was involved in the opening of Lío London as sous chef and thanks to that experience they offered me to go back to my birthplace to lead the Mallorca project. I didn’t have to think twice about it.
How was the process of adapting the Lío concept to Mallorca?
Lío started in Ibiza with a very clear identity and although we share the same DNA, Mallorca has its own pace and clientele. Throughout these three years we have gradually changed the food on offer, adapting it to local tourism and a more diverse range of people. Each season is an evolution.
Paccheri pasta with caccio e pepe and scarlet prawn
What defines the cuisine at Lío Mallorca?
We work with produce-based Mediterranean cuisine with a big focus on quality. Our average ticket is high, so the demands are also high. This season we have taken another step forward, unifying the menu with the other Líos (in Ibiza and Mykonos), allowing customers to recognise the Lío experience wherever they area. The remaining 30 per cent is open to chef recommendations, local produce and seasonality.
How does the show impact the food?
A lot. Unlike a traditional restaurant, here it’s not just the food that takes centre stage but also the show. We also play our part in the script. This forces us to find a balance between the presentation, flavour and cooking times. We have to serve fast, keep the food at a perfect temperature and surprise diners, without stealing the limelight from the stage.
And how do you achieve that balance?
With a lot of coordination. Imagine serving 250 people in an hour and a half while there are acrobats, lights, music… It’s not easy, but that organised chaos is part of the magic. Customers should not only eat well, they must enjoy a full experience. When they try a dish and think “the restaurant here is also great”, we have done our job well.
Red shrimp tartare
Is the show also reflected in the dishes?
Of course. We use flares, smoke, aromatic sprays, gold leaf... The dishes have to be very “chic” in order to surprise customers. We have even incorporated a seafood salad bowl which is served with champagne with alongside the show. Every little detail counts.
You have been working with Andreu Genestra for many years. What is your relationship like?
For me, Andreu is more than a colleague, he’s a friend. We have been working together for over 16 years, ever since we got a Michelin star at Son Jaumell. Now, as executive chef of the group, he has turned the project on its head in a culinary sense without losing sight of the essence of Lío, which is “to celebrate life”.
What new developments do you have this season?
The big new development is the unified menu, but we have also launched a new themed night called Nostalgia. It takes place every Friday and is exclusive to Lío Mallorca. It’s a night inspired by the ‘80s with music that brings together different generations and, of course, with spectacular staging.
musical show
What is the most difficult thing about your work?
Maintaining a high level every night. There is no margin for error. We work with artists who give it their all at every function and we have to be up to scratch in the kitchen, the service, the timings. The key is enjoying the process and working like a Swiss clock.
And the most gratifying?
Seeing people happy. Knowing that they have eaten well, that they have experienced something unique and that they will come back. That makes up for it all.
