Es Fum - St. Regis Mardavall Mallorca Resort. From the Atlantic to the Mediterranean: multicultural island food
Miguel Navarro
Since its foundation more than 120 years ago, St. Regis has been synonymous with exclusivity and sophistication—a legacy that began in New York, founded by John Jacob Astor IV, and which today lives on in Mallorca with the only St. Regis establishment in Spain: St. Regis Mardavall Mallorca Resort. Overlooking the Mediterranean, the resort has established itself as a leading destination for those seeking luxury, personalised service and excellence in every detail.
With 125 rooms and suites, all with sea or garden views, the resort combines a 24-hour butler service—an emblem of the brand—with unique experiences such as the Afternoon Tea ritual and the Sabrage at the St. Regis Bar. Its spa, one of the largest on the island, and its focus on wellness, round up the services of this sophisticated retreat.
“If there is one area, however, that takes on special prominence, it is gastronomy”, says Borja García, director of the hotel. Three culinary concepts led by Michelin-starred chefs set the tone: Mar Sea Club, Terra and, of course, Es Fum, the gourmet restaurant that boasts one Michelin star and one Sol Repsol, where chef Miguel Navarro orchestrates a menu that is as profound as it is creative.
Borja García
“Es Fum is a gourmet restaurant housed in a luxury hotel. A restaurant with a tasting menu where we offer complete experiences”, says Miguel Navarro, director of gastronomy of Es Fum. The food is based around three tasting menus with ten courses: Origin, Vegetable and Journey, each one offering a different narrative. “Origin is a journey from the Atlantic (because I am from the Canary Islands) to the Mediterranean (because we are in Mallorca)”. Vegetable is free from animal protein: “It is not an alternative, it is a complete concept”, explains the chef. And Journey, the most conceptual option, speaks about the experience of being alive. “There are dishes that represent death, love and change”, notes Navarro.
Despite the global influences, the local area is key: “We are on an island with amazing produce: olive oil, cheese, vegetables, fish. But we do not make Mallorcan food, we make multicultural island food”.
Miguel Navarro: the chef who cooks his life experience
Miguel Navarro has been at the helm of Es Fum for nine seasons, although his cooking career began during his teenage years. “I did not get involved in cooking as a vocation but as a punishment”, he jokes. He was brought up in La Gomera, where his family had a restaurant. From there, his career took him to Barcelona, Germany and, finally, Mallorca, where he arrived at the age of 38. “I don’t know if it was a coincidence or destiny, but I have one grandma from La Gomera and another one from Mallorca. I had never set foot on the island and now I have been here for nine years”. His style has evolved with it. “I have had a long period of learning and then I was gradually acquiring tools. Now I design based on my own life experience”.
Es Fum Hamachi
At Es Fum favourite dishes do not exist. “It’s like asking a mother which child is her favourite”, says Navarro. But there is a clear theme: “The food is based a lot around the sea; it is warm, light, adapted to the weather and the type of people who come to Mallorca”.
A commitment to sustainability is reflected, among other things, in their relationship with Son Montaner vegetable farm, a project from the Arabella Hospitality group: “All the organic waste is transformed into compost that is given to local farmers and we work with an association that gives jobs to people with special needs”. In terms of wine, each menu is accompanied by a specific pairing: “We don’t just offer food, we offer complete experiences”, stresses the chef.
With one Michelin star and a well established concept, how do you continue to surprise diners? “Right now we are trying to see things more from the customer’s perspective. It’s not just about cooking well or serving well, it’s about telling stories and telling them well”, says Navarro.
Beyond the extremely high quality standards or the “pressure” that sometimes comes from recognition, the chef is clear about one thing: “At this level it is not a job, it’s a lifestyle. Every day we start from scratch, as if it were the first day”.
Red prawn creamy rice
