Rafa Perelló
Bàrbar, the Amida Group’s youngest restaurant, has celebrated its first year in Palma and has already established itself as one of the boldest establishments in the Mallorcan gastronomic scene. We spoke to Rafa Perelló, the group’s executive chef, to understand how this unique space—where the produce, the grill and creativity set the pace—has evolved.
Rafa, how would you weigh up this first year?
From the very beginning we had a clear idea about the concept and in actual fact it has changed very little. It has worked well for us from the start and although we have fine-tuned some recipes, the essence has remained untouched. I think we got it right.
How would you define the food at Bàrbar?
Our food is very produce-focused. We work with techniques such as marinating, fermentation, maceration and even ageing fish. At first glance, the dishes may seem simple, but there is a lot of work behind them. We also cook exclusively with two Basque grills and an oven. We don’t use deep fryers or microwaves. For the pastry team it is a constant challenge.
Was it a creative choice or a technical necessity?
A bit of both. We designed the restaurant with only a grill and oven, so the whole concept is born from those limitations. It forces us to make the most of each technique, even making slow-cooked confits in the evening with the residual heat from the charcoal. We even make grilled strawberries. I think these kinds of ‘constraints’ push us to be more creative.
Is there any inspiration from traditional Mediterranean cuisine?
Yes, but not literally. Amida’s DNA is Mediterranean, but at Bàrbar we don’t limit ourselves to a specific recipe book. We play with Japanese, Scandinavian and Latin influences but always with local produce.
Grilled eggplant
You mentioned ageing fish. How do you apply this technique?
The technique is not very common in Mallorca. At Periplo, another one of our restaurants, we grill whole fish, but at Bàrbar we needed larger, fattier pieces, such as sea bass, turbot or greater amberjack, which withstand the process well. We’re really interested in textures, like that of red mullet, which is almost raw, a bit like gummy sweets. We also use mackerel. We are always looking for a balance between technicality and enjoyment.
How do you manage local and seasonal produce?
We use a lot of local produce. We adapt the menu four or five times a year, depending on the season. Right now we are using asparagus, peas, artichokes... If the weather changes, so does our food.
We have created the restaurant we would like to go to. At Bàrbar you eat at the bar, inside the kitchen, while watching the chefs at work
Are there any dishes that have become Bàrbar icons?
Yes, some of them have gained such a following that we can no longer remove them. One is the aged beef steak tartar with green pepper béarnaise, which we serve with freshly-chargrilled naan bread. Another one is the marinated tuna with grilled strawberries. The combination is surprising but very balanced.
How has the public’s reception been in this first year?
Excellent. At first we were worried, because we were thinking of doing something more like a traditional steakhouse. But when we saw how the place was coming along, we opted for something more elaborate. And the public understood it really well. We have many repeat customers, and the best thing is that they are bold enough to try anything.
Mallorca is enjoying a culinary boom. How do you get Bàrbar to stand out in such a competitive environment?
We have created the restaurant we would like to go to. At Bàrbar you eat at the bar, inside the kitchen, while watching the chefs at work. It’s almost like being at a chef friend’s house. There’s smoke, there’s a show, there’s interaction. Nowadays, the experience counts as much as the food.
What future plans do you have for Bàrbar?
We are going to open a new annexed space that will serve as a small laboratory. It is still under development, but it promises to be very interesting. We have also gone from opening five days a week to opening all week, because there is demand for it. And as always, we will continue to refine each and every detail, improving recipes and looking for that balance between technique, flavour and fun.
