Jhonatan & Alejandro
In the heart of La Lonja lies a hidden garden where time seems to stand still and the city’s hustle and bustle fades away. The majestic Can Bordoy hotel kicks off the season with the arrival of chef Jhonatan Maldonado, who has come to this palace to weave a culinary narrative where his Chilean roots and absolute respect for the Balearic landscape take centre stage. A natural evolution that promises to elevate the hedonism of this secret garden to new heights. Come in, settle beneath the foliage and let yourself be carried away by the island’s most flavoursome side.
“I needed a change,” confesses Jhonatan Maldonado, who, after seven years settled in the tranquillity of a rural setting, has decided to make the leap to the centre of Palma. The challenge is no small feat: adapting his vision (award-winning and renowned across the island) to the relaxed luxury of an urban hotel that already has an established reputation.
For Maldonado, this move isn’t just a change of postcode, but a complete creative metamorphosis. After just a few weeks getting to grips with the kitchen, the chef is finalising the details of a menu that promises to mark a turning point on the city’s culinary scene. “It’s ultimately a challenge, but it’s that blend of enthusiasm and dreams that drives us to improve on what’s already been achieved, which is a great deal,” he says with infectious energy.
Two concepts, one heartbeat: Kume and Peuma
Can Bordoy’s revamped offering diversifies the experience by dividing it into two parallel worlds, both with a name from the Mapuche language, a non-negotiable and deeply personal hallmark for the chef.
“At lunchtime we’ll have a very informal tapas-style concept, designed for sharing. We want people to come and enjoy themselves. This menu will be called Kume,” he explains. As he himself says, the choice of this word is a statement of intent that invites relaxation: “In the Mapuche language, Kume means the happiness you feel when eating”.
But when the sun goes down, the garden will dress up for the occasion. “In the evening we’ll move towards a more fine-dining approach and have a tasting menu called Peuma. Peuma means dreams,” explains the chef. On his preference for these ancestral terms, Maldonado confesses: “I’ve always given names in Mapuche to all the menus I’ve created”.
This evening menu, ranging from nine to ten courses, will be an emotional journey. “The menu speaks of the dreams we all have, of the dreams of doing things,” he says. A sensibility that the chef has masterfully woven together with the building’s own legend: “The owners of the house were dreamers; the grandfather was a sailor who’d travelled the world bringing back spices. The family had a son who was blind, and he experienced the world through the scent of the spices his grandfather brought him,” explains Maldonado.
But if there’s one thing that defines Can Bordoy’s new direction, it’s the maturity of its sustainable concept. Historically, the restaurant has embraced a plant-forward philosophy, giving vegetables an undisputed leading role. Now, Maldonado seeks to broaden that horizon to integrate a much richer local ecosystem.
“The plant-forward concept doesn’t make it vegan or vegetarian; I think the restaurant’s been pigeonholed into that,” the chef reflects candidly. In his new vision, the garden will continue to shine in its own right, but under an umbrella of global sustainability. “We want to work with meat from Mallorca, organic produce and products that are as healthy as possible,” he emphasises. This firm commitment to local sourcing will permeate everything, from the first rays of sunshine (“organic yoghurts from Mallorca, fresh milk and sobrasada…”) to the last drink of the night.
To embark on this exciting project, Maldonado has surrounded himself with a top-class team. Alongside him in the kitchen is Alejandro Palmer, a Mallorcan chef returning home after two years as head chef at the prestigious Mina restaurant in Bilbao. The dining room, a key part of the operation, will be orchestrated by Kelly Darbyshire, the new F&B Manager. This “breath of fresh air”, in the chef’s own words, is the driving force bringing a great deal of positive energy into Can Bordoy’s gastronomy.
Eating the beauty of a secret garden
To whet our appetites ahead of the imminent season launch, Maldonado treats us to a captivating preview. The opening of the Peuma menu will be a true visual ode to its surroundings. “I want to highlight that artistic floral aspect of a botanical garden, full of excitement and dreams, with dishes that are more imaginative. To achieve this, every bite will be served in little pots filled with flowers that we’ve made especially for this,” he confesses.
After these colourful appetisers, presented on beds of dried flowers, an absolutely surprising course will follow: “a watermelon consommé with a touch of amontillado and also a strand of tiny flowers”, designed so that diners can connect with the earth by drinking it directly with their hands.
The Can Bordoy hotel is about to uncork its most magical and stimulating season. The garden is lush, the kitchen is fired up and dreams are about to come true. Ready to dream?
