Borja and María
On Migjorn beach, just 190 steps from the sea, there’s a restaurant that not only takes that number as its name, but embraces it as a philosophy: closeness, freshness and honesty. 190 Pasos is the life project of Borja Molins and his partner, a culinary venture that resists labels and is rooted in the Mediterranean essence. “The name comes from the fact we’re exactly 190 steps from the water,” says Borja. “We mainly cook fish, so it’s almost like a metaphor: our pantry is just 190 steps away.”
With the same naturalness and honesty, we chat with Borja Molins, a Valencian chef who’s been living in Formentera since 2011 and has turned hospitality and respect for ingredients into the pillars of his project.
Who is Borja Molins inside and outside 190 Pasos?
I’m just another worker on the island, someone who’s been in hospitality here for many years. I arrived here in 2011, and since then I’ve worked in different kitchens until starting this project with my partner. We don’t come from a hospitality family or big groups, we’re just young people who want to do things well.
How did you come to Formentera and what’s your journey been like on the island?
I came to work at the Can Dani restaurant with guidance from Rafa Soler. The following year, I stayed on as head chef. From there, I started building my career on the island, and after several attempts to find a place, we got the chance to open 190 Pasos. We were lucky to find a spot with reasonable terms, which meant we could start without any debt.
What personal touch have you brought to the restaurant?
Honesty. The way we treat both produce and people. We want our guests to feel at home, with no pretence or unnecessary frills. There are no double shifts or rushing here. We’re committed to a calm, respectful atmosphere where people come to enjoy the food and the moment.
Sea bass tiradito
What does hospitality mean to you?
For me, hospitality is creating a space where people feel comfortable and at peace. We’re not trying to impress, just to offer an honest, enjoyable experience. Here we don’t force anything, we don’t try to turn cooking into a concept or chase trends. We’re not an Instagram restaurant, we’re a family-run eatery with a sincere, thoughtful approach.
How would you define the food offering at 190 Pasos?
It’s food made for sharing, full of variety and freedom. We don’t like to box ourselves in. You might find a traditional stew, a Nikkei-style tiradito, cocido croquettes or fried octopus. We don’t do fusion cuisine as such, though some dishes do have influences. There’s technique when it’s needed and simplicity when appropriate. Maybe you could call us a bistro, if you had to put a label on it.
There are no double shifts or rushing here
Is there a common thread that runs through your dishes?
Yes, the nuances. We like working with contrasts, with little bursts of flavour that stay with you. We always want each bite to have personality, to leave something behind. We’re obsessed with making sure dishes don’t just taste good, but awaken the senses.
What are your signature dishes?
I’d say our top four are: mackerel, scallop, tiradito and steak tartare. These are dishes customers already associate with us; they’ve become our signature.
Beyond the kitchen, what role does the setting, the space or the music play in the restaurant experience?
A crucial one. This year we’ve been able to invest in improving the venue’s acoustics. I’m a big music lover and it’s important here. We’ve got a carefully curated playlist: jazz, rhythm and blues and lots of brass, but nothing typical. We’ve also changed the lighting to create a softer, more intimate atmosphere, something guests really appreciate. Little by little, we’re shaping everything, with no rush.
Bomb
You’ve been in Formentera for many years. What do you like about the island?
It was by chance that I stayed, but it hooked me. I’ve always enjoyed working here, though I also recognise that the island has changed. I miss the Formentera from ten years ago. Now some of the middle class have disappeared, and there are more people interested in taking photos than in the food. We’re still committed to doing things differently, to offering an honest experience.
What’s your growth philosophy?
We take it step by step, without loans. We only invest what we earn. That gives us freedom and allows us to stay true to the restaurant’s essence. We don’t want to raise prices or change the menu just to pay off debt. We’d rather move slowly but surely.
