Jhonatan Maldonado
Food by Jhonatan Maldonado can be discovered in the tranquil setting of Fontsanta Hotel Thermal Spa and, in his kitchen, fresh Mallorcan produce unites with vibrant culinary traditions from places as far-flung as Chile and Israel. Chef Maldonado infuses his dishes with the warmth of stews prepared by his grandmother and the richness of spices from his childhood in Israel. His talent has been shaped by innovative techniques learned at the Balearic Islands School of Hospitality and experience working in Michelin-starred kitchens. This is reflected in creations that tell his story: a fusion of the land that saw him grow up, and the influences that he has gathered each step along the way. At the Fontsanta Hotel restaurant, Maldonado has designed a menu that takes you on a journey, starting in the fertile Chilean valleys and ending in the relaxed luxury of Mallorca, celebrating his international inheritance with each dish.
From Chile to Israel to Mallorca... How has living in these places influenced your cooking?
I was born in Chile and my parents decided to move to Israel when I was 3. I lived there for 8 years. Then we returned to Chile and, when I was 14, they decided to come to Mallorca. We tell the story of this journey with our tasting menu. I’m someone who never forgets where they come from.
How do you manage to express this journey in your dishes?
Throughout the menu, especially in the aperitifs, I always add a little something as a reminder of Israel. Before we had a shawarma and now we’re working on another dish, a kofta that reminds me a lot of Israel. The menu also blends traditional Chilean cooking with local produce. I don’t like to call it fusion cooking because I don’t think that’s what we do. But I have these memories of Chile and try to apply everything I’ve learned to produce that comes from the island. It’s a way of thanking the island for my evolution and professional development, which all happened here. That’s why I prefer to describe what I do as Mediterranean cooking, with hints of traditional dishes from over there, but always made using local produce.
What are the biggest similarities and differences between the three types of food?
They’re completely different on both a cooking and cultural level. It’s true that Chile has lots of fish and seafood, just like here, but they are nothing alike. They are completely different ways of eating and seeing food. I think this diversity is enriching, both on a personal level and in terms of doing something interesting professionally. I think that having grown up with three very different food cultures gives you a much wider perspective. With the tasting menu, I try to give a certain coherence to all the experiences I’ve lived. That’s why the menu is a totally Mediterranean concept but has some Chilean dishes.
I think that having grown up with three very different food cultures gives you a much wider perspective
Where does your vocation to be a chef come from?
I loved spending time in the kitchen with my grandmother when I was small, it’s always grabbed my attention and it’s definitely a vocation. No one had worked as a chef in my family before, and my parents saw it as something you didn’t study. Because cooking didn’t use to be as highly appreciated as it is now, it was like a “last option”. Luckily, that’s changed a lot over the past few years. In fact, things are completely the opposite now, television has romanticized the job when in reality it’s really hard work, you need to have a vocation.
How has the hotel’s food evolved since you joined in 2018?
Before, the food was much simpler and the menu focused on snacks: hamburgers, wraps, salads, etc. Slowly but surely, we’ve “complicated” things and tried to make the hotel grow in culinary terms, to make a name for it on the island.
What was most difficult about achieving it?
The most difficult part was definitely the team: attracting staff, getting the team to stay, and to come with you as things evolved... We’ve gradually managed to create a stable team and have a very clear identity. We succeeded in separating the snack menu and making it for hotel guests only, we’ve created a bistro menu that also has a lunchtime tasting menu... And we have a gourmet menu in the evenings, with a 12-course tasting menu... This menu also uses local, Mediterranean produce... We have Mallorcan dishes and some Chilean touches.
What challenges have you set yourself for your future career?
Our goal is to create two spaces: one for the tasting menu, and another for the restaurant. We’ve been working on this idea for three years because almost all the customers who visit us from outside the hotel come to try the tasting menu. Another of our goals is to make hotel guests eat at the hotel every day and we’re already achieving that: some guests stay here for two weeks and eat every meal here. But we’re also concentrating on customers from outside the hotel. We want them to visit us and we’re achieving that too.
Do you think that Mallorca is becoming a culinary destination?
Yes, we’ve got lots of customers who come here to discover Mallorcan food. In fact, lots tell us about all the other restaurants they’ve visited during their holiday. The fact that they include us on their foodie route gives us real joy. Because we’re a young team and our project is just getting started. And for them to include you among this group of first-class gourmet restaurants is hugely satisfying. And it happens a lot... It’s personally important to me, because they come to your home to try what you’re doing: your ideas, your dishes, and your way of seeing food.
What do you do when you’re not cooking? What are your hobbies?
I train, go to the gym... And at home I’ve set up a semi-professional kitchen with a packing machine, a Roner... I love cooking at home, I love people coming round and cooking for them. I’m really lucky that my work is something I enjoy so much. I’m really happy to be cooking all the time.
