In 2020, he was included among the 100 Young Culinary Talents by the Basque Culinary Center; he has worked in temples to food such as Zuberoa, with Hilario Arbelaitz, and Can Jubany (Nando Jubany); and he is currently head chef at Estimar Madrid. This year, Ibizan chef Alberto Pacheco has opened Es Fumeral in Cala Nova: his own, modernised version of the classic chiringuito. Pacheco has designed a menu of barbecued, raw, and fried fish that gives locals and tourists the chance to rediscover the greatest treasures of the Mediterranean, lovingly prepared with the greatest respect for the product.
What is the concept behind Es Fumeral and how is it different from what you’ve done before?
The island is growing fast. It’s going through a period of change and has always relied on beach clubs. Lots have opened and they’re always focused on tourists, on partying, sunsets... But these projects don’t usually have a serious food concept behind them that focuses on the product, the Mediterranean, and Ibiza. Then, in contrast, you’ve got the typical rural-style restaurants that do serve local products but, in my opinion, they’re a bit behind the times because they’re doing the same thing they were doing 30 years ago. Es Fumeral is a chiringuito where you eat really well. You’ll find perfectly cooked fish that has been altered as little as possible: it’s barbecued, raw, fried... It’s a very simple line of food, like you’d find in chiringuitos in the past, the ones with plastic chairs. A chiringuito where you go to enjoy great food, wine, company, views, and the essence of the island, and that’s why we want to focus on local, Mediterranean produce.
Is it a chiringuito or beach club?
Es Fumeral is a chiringuito. It’s not a beach club at all...and we don’t want to be one. We want Es Fumeral to be a chiringuito for everyone.
When you visit Es Fumeral, what are the dishes you simply have to try?
We specialise in the sea, the menu is 90% fish and we mostly focus on barbecuing, so I’d recommend some delicious barbecued fish; I’d also suggest trying the carpaccio (we have wagyu, prawn, tuna belly...), and the fried fish. These are going to be our three emblematic dishes.
What are your future plans for Es Fumeral?
We want to see how it goes down with the public this year, but our idea is to carry on with this line of food, and to make Es Fumeral seem as much like a classic chiringuito as possible, but one that’s a little bit better.
Which three products best describe your cooking?
Olive oil, prawns, and sea urchin.
What is the team like at Es Fumeral?
We’re from Ibiza. 80% of the team is Ibizan, they’re almost all my lifelong friends, young people who have worked in hospitality their whole lives (sommeliers, chefs, waiters...)
We’re from Ibiza. 80% of the team is Ibizan, and they’re almost all my lifelong friends
What do you miss about Ibizan food, now you live in Madrid?
I really miss alioli and bullit de peix...
And what do you think is missing on the island, in terms of food?
I miss having a good local bar, a great bar where you go every day. Ibiza has lots of seasonal people, and the bars are missing that regular clientele that you usually find in cities. In Madrid I go to the same bar every day, meet the same people... That doesn’t happen in Ibiza.
How do you see food evolving in Ibiza?
Everything started to change when Heart opened in Ibiza a few years ago. Lots of famous chefs that aren’t from here were brought to the island and they acted as if they were superstars... It was really easy to behave like a big star on an island where there was practically no competition and that didn’t have lots of things. I’m really happy now, because the people who are coming are more serious, they do things better and are focused on food, not their own egos and self interest.